Hair Color Developer: Choosing Volumes

Developer is half the equation in hair coloring. Choosing the right volume is just as important as selecting the right dye.

What is Developer?

Developer (also called activator, oxidizer, or peroxide) is a hydrogen peroxide solution that:

1. Opens the hair cuticle
2. Activates the dye pigments
3. Lightens the natural hair pigment

Volumes and Their Lifting Power

The 4 developer volumes every colorist must know:

Volume	H₂O₂ %	Levels of Lift	Primary Use
10 vol	3%	0-1 level	Color deposit, toning, soft gray blending (<30%)
20 vol	6%	1-2 levels	Standard gray coverage (up to 100%), moderate changes
30 vol	9%	2-3 levels	Highlights, balayage, resistant dark bases
40 vol	12%	3-4 levels	Quick bleaching, very resistant hair (high damage risk)

The professional rule: always use the minimum volume that achieves the goal.

When to Use Each Volume

10 Volume (3%)

Ideal for:

• Depositing color without lifting
• Toning pre-lightened hair
• Soft gray coverage (less than 30%)
• Refreshing mids and ends

Don’t use when: You need lift or to cover resistant grays.

20 Volume (6%)

The most versatile:

• Gray coverage up to 100%
• 1-2 level changes
• Color over color
• Foundation for most services

This is the industry standard for its balance between lifting power and hair integrity.

30 Volume (9%)

For specific techniques:

• Traditional highlights
• Balayage with moderate lift
• Dark bases that need more lift
• Very resistant virgin hair

Caution: Can damage fine or sensitized hair.

40 Volume (12%)

Advanced professional use:

• Quick bleaching
• Very resistant hair
• Specific techniques (with protection)

Warning: High damage risk. Avoid on treated or sensitive hair.

Factors That Influence Your Choice

1. Hair Condition

• Virgin: You can use higher volumes
• Previously treated: Reduce the volume
• Damaged: Maximum 20 vol with treatment

2. Porosity

• High porosity: Absorbs quickly, use lower volume
• Low porosity: May need higher volume or heat

3. Gray Percentage

• < 30%: 10-20 vol
• 30-70%: 20 vol
• > 70%: 20-30 vol with pre-pigmentation

4. Desired Lift Level

• No lift: 10 vol
• 1-2 levels: 20 vol
• 2-3 levels: 30 vol
• 3+ levels: Consider pre-lightening

Color to Developer Ratios

The standard ratio is 1:1 (equal amounts of color and developer), but varies by technique:

Technique	Ratio
Global color	1:1
High-lift tints	1:2
Semi-permanent	1:1 or 1:1.5
Powder lightener	Per manufacturer

Common Mistakes

1. Always using 30 vol “just in case”: Causes unnecessary damage
2. Mixing developers from different brands: Can alter results — if you need to switch brands, use our hair color converter to check shade compatibility first
3. Not adjusting for hair condition: Every client is different - learn to diagnose in our color level guide
4. Ignoring porosity: Directly affects the outcome

For more common formulation mistakes, check our guide on color formulation errors.

How Blendsor Helps

Blendsor’s AI analyzes your client’s photos and recommends:

• Optimal developer volume
• Color to developer ratio
• Processing time
• Specific precautions

All based on hair condition analysis and the desired result.

Frequently Asked Questions

What developer volume should I use for gray coverage?

Use a minimum of 20 volume (6%) for gray coverage. This volume opens the cuticle enough for pigment to penetrate resistant gray hairs. For very stubborn grays above 70% coverage, combine 20 volume with a pre-pigmentation technique.

Can I mix different developer volumes together?

Yes, mixing developers from the same brand is a valid technique for achieving intermediate volumes. For example, mixing equal parts of 20 and 30 volume yields approximately 25 volume. Never mix developers from different brands, as stabilizers may be incompatible.

What happens if I use a higher developer volume than needed?

Using more volume than necessary causes unnecessary damage to the hair fiber, excessive lift of natural pigment, and can alter the desired reflect. The professional rule is to always use the minimum volume that achieves the goal.

Does developer expire or lose potency?

Yes, developer loses potency over time, especially when exposed to heat or direct light. A developer with a loose cap loses hydrogen peroxide concentration, reducing its lifting power and potentially causing inconsistent results.

Recommended Professional Developers

These are the developers that deliver the best performance based on our experience and hundreds of colorists:

• Wella Welloxon Perfect — The most consistent on the market. Available in 1.9%, 4%, 6%, 9% and 12%. Predictable results with the entire Koleston line.
• L’Oreal Oxydant Creme — Creamy texture that doesn’t drip. Compatible with Inoa, Majirel and Dia Light. Excellent for open-air techniques.
• Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Developer — Stable formulation with conditioning agents. Ideal for full services with Igora Royal.

Tip: Always use the developer from the same brand as your dye. Stabilizers are designed to work together and results are more predictable.

Try our developer-dye mix calculator to get the exact ratio for your case. And if you want to predict what happens when combining two shades, use our hair color mixing calculator.

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Mastering developers is what separates a good colorist from an excellent one.

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Related articles:

• Complete Guide to Hair Color Levels
• Common Color Formulation Mistakes
• How to Neutralize Unwanted Tones