Formula: Correction from level 4 to level 3
Color correction from level 4 (Medium brown) to level 3 (Dark brown) is one of the most complex services requiring the most experience. The goal is to darken from level 4 to 3, correcting a previous unwanted result. When working a correction, we must consider not only the current and desired levels but also the hair's chemical history and any artificial pigments that may be present. The red underlying pigment at the current level and the dark red background at the target level determine the neutralization strategy. This type of service requires a detailed prior diagnosis and frequently a multi-step process. We guide you through the fundamental technical steps.
Process steps
Diagnosis and strand test
Evaluate the hair's condition: current level (4, Medium brown), porosity, and previous coloring. Highly bleached hair can absorb pigment unevenly. Perform a strand test to verify how it reacts to dark pigment and how much tone it absorbs.
Pigment filling (pre-pigmentation)
Before applying the dark color, you must fill in the missing pigments. Apply a semi-permanent color of the underlying pigment corresponding to the target level (dark red for level 3). This prevents the final color from looking ashy, greenish, or dull. Process 10-15 minutes without rinsing.
Target color application
On pre-pigmented hair (without rinsing), apply level 3 color with 10vol (3%) developer. Work root to tip in fine sections for uniform coverage. The ends, being more porous, may need less processing time.
Processing and evaluation
Process 30-45 minutes. Check color deposit without emulsifying: separate a section and wipe with a damp towel to see the real tone. Color should look uniform from roots to ends. If the ends darken faster, emulsify just the ends early.
Rinsing and sealing
Rinse with lukewarm water and apply an acid treatment to seal the cuticle and lock in pigment. Avoid shampoo for the first 48 hours. Recommend lukewarm water (never hot) for subsequent washes. Schedule a follow-up at 2 weeks to evaluate color retention.
Technical details
Professional tips
- Pre-pigmentation is mandatory when darkening more than 2 levels. Skipping it is the number one cause of corrections that fade in 1-2 washes.
- Use a semi-permanent color for the fill, never permanent. Semi-permanent prepares the background without excessive chemical reaction.
- Highly porous ends absorb faster. Apply there last or reduce processing time in that area.
- Schedule a mandatory follow-up at 2 weeks. 80% of problems in dark corrections appear after the third wash.
Frequently asked questions
About this specific formula
Have more questions?
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